1. Distance of object? Paragon Trickery? MipMapping? LOD and depth-of-field?
Willem H. de Boer. (2000). Fast Terrain Rendering Using Geometrical MipMapping. E-mersion Project. 1 (1), p1-.
Saanga. (2004). Photospot. Available: http://photospot2004.blogspot.com/2004/07/depth-of-field-third-dimension.html. Last accessed 20th oct 2011.
My slightly high poly clock project has taken a drastic twist. It has shifted into a very interesting category of depth of field, MipMapping and polygon trickery. In the screenshot below I used the duplicate function to create four clocks and then started to use the Reduce tool on the clocks. I put the clocks in different positions, as shown in the first screenshot with the highest poly in front and the lower poly is the furthest away. It is harder to tell because the detail of the clocks has dulled and the simple shape of the clock shows. I then lined them all up in a row and rendered a picture at a distance. I couldn’t tell from the distance which one is the highest poly or the lowest poly, therefore I did a few more renders at different camera distances.
2. Dynamic world of detail (explanation on LOD) After carrying out research I found that there are different types of LOD but the classical LOD is to do with distance of the object. When a character is standing near an object it will be at its highest resolution in detail, when the character walks away the model goes down in poly’s and texture resolution. The further the character moves away the rendering speed of the object will increase because it changes into a lower poly and improve overall performance.
1 tris 14
2. tris 166 (70% Reduce)
3. tris 832 (original)
4. tris 328 (50% Reduce)
3. This is at the stage when I found out that bevelling is the wrong way to go. The reason why was a bad decision was because it ruins the reduce mesh function and also it adds slight difficulty to UV mapping. It’s only good for extremely high poly objects and for huge buildings.
1. tris 14
2. tris 78 (85 anymore and it will look out of shape)
3. tris 106 (80)
4. tris 166 (70)
5. tris 328 (50)
6. tris 538 (25)
7. tris 832 (original)
7, 5, 2 and lowest I can go clock.
4. This is the number 5, at a closer inspection there are a lot of poly’s that are not needed.
5. I have reduced many of the unneeded poly’s and got rid of the bevel.
6. I needed a clock between the 246 tri clock and the 68 tri one.
7. Back to square one. I began to make a low poly clock from scratch.
8. I started to sculpt it from the x axis’s again but this time I am going to be really strict on how many tri’s I’m using.
9. I used the add divisions tool to change the bottom face to 4. (There are quite a few ways to create the legs.)
10. After extruding the legs I selected the inner vertex’s and tried to scale them equally (It doesn’t matter if you’re slightly out because later I’m going to cut it into quarters). On different axis I lined them up with the x and z drawing guidelines.
11. Now that I have finished the base of the four legs the rest is easy. With this I kept on extruding the legs and following the axis’s guidelines.
12. With the extruded legs I selected the four vertex’s around the sides to be the tip of the feet. At this point I checked if to see the expanding points were in line with the x and z axis and to see if it’s scaled right.
13. Now is the time to concentrate on one leg of the clock and get it just right. I did this by scaling both sides of the vertex’s on one leg. As long as it looks right its fine as the only thing that this might effect is the UV mapping which I am going to do later.
14. This is when I added lines to cut out a quarter of the shape. I would only cut it if each side is symmetrical to each other. (So if I modelled a couch I could only put it in half but it all depends on the design and if it’s symmetrical or not)
15. When I was happy with the leg I used the duplicate special tool to duplicate the leg parallel to the original. I then merged the two quarters to from a half and then delete the merge line.
16. I then used the duplicate special again for the half to be formed into a whole. I then merged the two sides. (138 tris)
17. Time to reduce as much of the unwanted tris as I can. I first removed the centre merge line and from there I joined it to the side, making sure it doesn’t make a 5 sided face. I then looked carefully in triangle to see if there is anymore I can reduce. I reduced the legs by connecting them to the start of the arch. I had to be very careful because I had to still retain the shape of the clock.
18. I finished the clock shape at 114 tris. But just to make sure I used the Clean up tool and made it highlight all the mistakes. There were no mistakes. ( :O slightly shocked at this but it is a simple design >.> if it was a higher poly, there would be more mistakes)
19. The final touches was to go and highlight the edges and use the soften edge tool in the normal menu but I had to leave the extra edges of the clock stuck on hard edges. If I would have softened all the edge it wouldn’t have looked right.
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